It’s a new year, and we’re kicking off the Sewing Club Podcast with something a bit different; The Zero-Waste Tier Dress by Birgitta Helmersson. Sewing a zero-waste pattern was a new experience for me and I was keen to understand how it differed from a conventional sewing pattern.
Sewing the The Zero Wast Tier Dress : The Low-Down
Pattern : Zero Waste Tiered Dress by Birgitta Helmersson
Size : Small with 4cm added to the skirt at the sides.
Fabric : Linen rayon blend
Sewing Label : One of a Kind by KATM
The Pattern
The Zero-Waste Tier Dress offers four variations:
- A short dress with thin straps
- A long dress with thin straps
- A short dress with sleeves
- A long dress with sleeves
All options feature a self-lined panel above the bust and a gathered A-line skirt. I opted for the long version with thin straps and an extra gathered tier at the bottom, and Kylie also opted for thin straps but in the shorter length. You can check out Kylie’s awesome version here.
Zero-Waste Vs Conventional Patterns
The key difference between a zero-waste pattern and a conventional one is in the cutting stage. With zero-waste designs, you’ll need to carefully read the instructions before starting to cut, as the width of your fabric plays a crucial role in determining the size and layout of the pattern. Once you’ve got this part figured out, the sewing itself is as straightforward as any other project.
When we spoke with Birgitta, she shared that beginners often adapt to zero-waste patterns more easily than seasoned sewists, as they aren’t entrenched in conventional sewing habits, but don't let that put your off! Birgitta also emphasised that accurate cutting of the grainline can be a bit more tricky with zero waste patterns and therefore requires extra attention.
Tips for Cutting and Sewing
A tip that helped me and that Birgitta also recommends is to keep the cutting layout close by and oriented the same way as your fabric and pattern pieces. This visual alignment makes the process much smoother.
Also, don’t overlook the alternative cutting layouts provided in the booklet for different fabric widths and sizes. These are invaluable for customising the pattern to your specific size and length needs.
My Experience
Once I understood the cutting process, I found drawing the pattern pieces directly onto the fabric surprisingly intuitive. It eliminated the need to print and assemble paper pieces, a definite bonus. Both Kylie and I commented that it felt like a life-sized game of Tetris, with the satisfying payoff of everything fitting perfectly! We also discussed that a projector file could be an excellent tool for this step… something that Birgitta, Kylie, and I agreed we should explore further.
The dress itself is a dream for hot summer days, especially when made with a lightweight, drapey fabric and the construction is fairly straightforward. I think the gathering is probably the trickiest bit, but just make sure you take your time and spread those gathers evenly. if you’re not making the sleeves you’ll need extra fabric or contrast fabric for the straps and underarm binding.
Making A Toile
I decided to make a toile using cheaper fabric for two reasons:
1. To familiarise myself with the zero-waste process.
2. To ensure a good fit.
While making a toile may seem counterintuitive to the zero-waste ethos, I’m glad I did. It allowed me to test adjustments before cutting into my final fabric. Alterations with zero-waste patterns can be tricky, as there’s little room for error. For my dress, I needed extra width in one area across my back. Adding this extra width to the skirt pieces created a wider facing piece to use on the hem of the dress, which I could either add to the dress as it was or trim it back to the original pattern size.
When we asked Birgitta about alterations, she suggested making a larger size and using darts or tucks to adjust the fit. This is a great approach for future zero-waste projects.
Final Thoughts
Birgitta has also published a Zero-Waste Patterns Sewing Book, a fantastic resource for creating a capsule wardrobe with minimal waste. It’s an excellent value and beginner-friendly, offering straightforward patterns and creative designs.
Overall, I loved making this zero-waste pattern and highly recommend it to all sewists. It’s a brilliant way to reduce fabric waste while exploring innovative design techniques. The thought and ingenuity that go into creating zero-waste patterns are truly impressive, and they result in unique shapes and styles that conventional patterns might not achieve.
If you’re curious about zero-waste sewing, this pattern is a perfect place to start and it’s a great way to challenge yourself and rethink your approach to sewing. Happy stitching!
If you're excited to try The Zero Waste Tier Dress, don’t miss Episode 15 of our podcast on platforms like Spotify and Apple Podcasts, Audible for all the details. And don’t forget to use the code SEWINGCLUBPODCAST for a discount on the pattern.
Happy sewing, everyone! 🎉✂️🧵